Tree and Shrub Care Tips

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Tree and Shrub Care Tips

Watering

Your newly planted tree will require regular watering to supplement rainfall until its roots become established. We recommend checking the root ball for moisture by probing the soil in the root ball. You can estimate dryness by inserting a metal probe into the soil. The drier the soil is, the more resistant it is to penetration. Digging with a small shovel works, too. Dig several inches deep and several inches away from the trunk after soaking to see how deeply the water has penetrated the soil.

To water, let a hose run slowly at the base of the tree for at least 5 to 10 minutes. Move the hose to another location around the tree and repeat until the entire root ball has been watered. Provide extra water during drought.

Mulching

Mulch applied judiciously around your trees and shrubs will benefit them in several ways. A 2- to 4-inch layer of wood chips, sawdust, compost or other organic material will act as insulation, conserve water and control weeds (more than 4 inches of mulch may cause problems for the root system). Maintain the appropriate depth by adding mulch as necessary, usually in spring and fall. Avoid covering the trunk with mulch; the mulch should not be any closer than 1 to 2 inches from the trunk. This will avoid damaging the bark at the base of the plant.

Protecting Tender Trunks

Protect the tender bark of young trees from rodent damage and sunscald by using tree wrap or guards. They are easy to use and can last for several years. Put the wraps and guards on the trees in late fall and remove in the spring.

Fertilizing for Faster Growth

Fertilize trees and shrubs at planting time with a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus. Once established, fertilize your plants once a year with a slow-release fertilizer at the drip line and beyond. The drip line is the area beneath the outermost branches. Feeder roots (the roots that take up water and nutrients) are present in this area and extend out even further. Fertilizing in this area is most beneficial for the plants.

Staking and Guying

Staking and guying can provide additional support, anchorage or protection to large trees and shrubs planted in open, windy sites. Avoid staking too rigidly -- allow the tree or shrub some movement. Remove stakes or guys after one growing season. In most cases, unstaked trees develop a stronger trunk than staked trees.

Pruning

Pruning provides clearance and removes diseased, dying or dead branches and limbs that are crossed or rubbing against each. Your new tree shouldn't require pruning unless a branch is damaged. However, pruning during the next few years is critical to develop a strong branch structure for future growth. Select scaffold branches that are at least 18 inches apart and evenly distributed around the trunk. Maintain a single leader for as long as possible, and avoid allowing branches to grow directly above one another. Make pruning cuts just outside the branch collar near the base of a branch. Prune in the winter or very early spring.

When pruning shrubs, cut off any damage that may have occurred during shipment. Further pruning is not necessary until after the first year. Many shrubs look their best in their natural form. Avoid cutting back all the branches to correct uneven growth. Cut overgrown branches completely back to the main stem or to a side branch. This avoids excessive height, yet keeps a pleasing, well-trimmed form.

Removing Suckers

Remove shoots that develop from the roots and on the bottom 12 inches of the trunk. Cut suckers off at ground level or at the trunk.

Finishing Touches

Finishing off your landscape is like putting the decorative frosting on a cake. Steel edging around planting beds and borders separates mulch from lawn areas and gives a professionally finished look. Use flagstone to finish off the edges of water gardens or to create paths and stepping areas within the landscape. Draw attention to particular areas of the landscape with contrasting decorative mulches.